The Witch-Fingered Hills of Andalusia

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So named for the curve of the peaks - like knuckles on a hand. With the evenly spaced chestnut trees dotting the landscape, it looks like a pom-pom quilt has been draped over the hills to soften the jagged stone.

Ronda is spectacular: there are little houses (occupied or not I don't know) carved into the cliffs around the gorge at various levels, and birds are constantly swooping in and out of their hiding places.









I stayed in Cartajima, 14 kms out of Ronda, where there is one tiny shop whose keeper opens whenever she damn-well pleases and a gathering of four or more people on the street/alley is a veritable fiesta.

The white-washed limestone is nearly blinding in the sunlight, punctuated by the blackest cast iron gates and various flower hues.









This is the hostel in Cartajima:



Directly across from the hostel door; beautiful spot for morning tea.



Inside the hostel: limestone walls and chestnut beams...



The entrance to my room:


In the middle of the night, the crickets buzz like soothing machinery - louder than I've ever heard before. In the morning, a dozen different songbirds and roosters crowing.

After two full days in Cartajima, it's off to Nerja.

Zipping through the mountain roads en route back to Ronda with two hippie-brits enthusiastically snapping along with the up-tempo jazz. Really nice guys. No pretension, direct and sincere conversation over bottles of Rioja beside the fire. Perfect.

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Nerja seems to be quite the resort town - overrun with 60+ Brits and Germans who, from what I observed, don't even attempt to speak spanish. I actually overheard one lady say to a waitress 'you don't speak english' in a slightly scolding tone! I mean, how hard is cafe con leche? Makes me feel a little better about my feeble attempts - but at least I get good service (can't say the same for that lady lol).

Regardless, Nerja is beautiful in that touristy way.



One of main attractions is what they call the Balcon de Europa (Balcony of Europe), at the end of a palm-lined promenade, jutting out into the ocean.




A few curiosities: the most ornate drinking fountain ever, and a cat nonchalantly sneaking up to some fresh seafood...




The other main attraction is the Cuevas de Nerja, a series of caves stumbled upon by some local boys in the 1950's.

The air smells stale in a mineral kind of way, but the moisture makes it feel fresh. You can hear drips echoing through the cavern halls...very eerie. So cool.








Next up: Granada.