Friday 27 June 2008

Cesky Krumlov: Oh My Gaping Jaw...

How is it even possible for a place to be this beautiful? I kept expecting to stumble on some stray wires and discover it for the movie set it feels like.










The castle, which overlooks the river:





And is still guarded by bears.
















I can't even describe it. I'm still at a loss for words.

I walked around the town several times over, lounged at river side cafe's. I marveled at the storefronts and the calmness of this place.

I dined on pheasant, millet, potato and sweet pickles, and finished off with a glass of hot south-bohemian mead.

I walked back to the hostel along dark, utterly silent streets.


Absolutely breathtaking.

* * *

End note: I'm off to the land of the midnight sun, and the internet situation is a bit up in the air so don't freak out if I'm not accessible for a while. I'll get in touch when I can.

Sunday 22 June 2008

Reluctant Yet Enchanting, Prague Is One Of A Kind

What is it about Prague that draws the coolest people on the planet? I met more fantastic folks here than in any other city. And after the Berlin-Pegasus debacle, Sir Toby's Hostel was a welcome relief - probably the best hostel I've stayed at so far.

Prague itself is awash in pastel, greenery and hints of medieval culture not-yet-kitschified beyond appreciation.




The streets wind and curve through the old town...




Even on the main shopping streets, there are beautiful buildings, flowers and impressive monuments to sunbathe on (apparently).



The astronomical clock on the edge of the Old Town Square. Gorgeous, but the most anti-climactic show ever, judging by the size of the crowd gathered there every hour, on the hour. It lasts all of three seconds. But it's still cool.


Powder Gate:



Whether a shop, museum, or even a bank, I can't stop gazing up at the buildings. My legs are covered in bruises from bumping into things as I wander with my eyes to the sky.


I had to take this photo. It's just too perfect. She didn't see me.





St Nikolas Church:



The National Museum:


Best Gothic fountain ever.


Charles Bridge is lined with artisans - hand crafted wood, paintings, sketches, and semi-precious stone jewelery.


And the markets are equally abundant, selling everything from puppets and ceramics to fruit and nuts.


Crossing one of the many bridges is always so picturesque...










Petrinske Sady has the best views of Prague, great walking paths and curious little sturctures to poke your head into...







Prague at night is spectacular: people ducking into smoky bars and congregating in the squares...

One night I went down to the Old Town Square to watch the EuroCup (Czech/Turkey) with a fellow Canadian (from Croatia). The scene was lively to say the least...until Turkey scored twice in as many minutes, for the game.




Another night I went jazz hunting with two cool guys from Maryland and - get this - Josh Brolin's kids. The nighttime scenes of Prague are so enchanting it's hard to believe you're in the same city that hustles and bustles during the day.







Check out this crazy art-thingy:


It's called Laterna Magika, but I couldn't figure out what it means or what it's for - alas my Czech is a bit rusty...Ok it's not so fascinating in still form so check out the video:



The Maryland boys and I ended up touring around for the next few days: very cool dudes, masters of witty repartee. I instantly loved them.

Exploring the area around Prague castle, we came across little little alcoves hiding restaurants and shops...




...the smallest street in Prague:



The area around Charles Bridge is full of souvenir shops and the requisite tourists, but astonishingly it's still quite a pleasure of walk through:





There are puppet and marionette shops scattered everywhere, which lends a certain wonderful creepiness to night-time Prague.



And even a pissing-men sculpture. If you text the number printed near the statues, they will piss whatever you write. Nifty.


One strange this I did notice was that wherever people were represented, heads seemed unnecessary - signs, mannequins...all headless.


One of the many highlights: The Church of All Saints - or, for tourists - the Bone Church.

Arranged by this guy in 1870.


Massive pyramids of human bones laid together, unbound.


Skull garlands dressing up the ceilings.


A very tomb-like atmosphere.



A little decrepit, but beautiful.


I love the chalice.


A bone coat of arms.



This chandelier has every bone in human body.



So, the verdict on Prague? Amzing, fantastic, splendid.

The Czechs aren't so inviting, but who can blame them?

Interestingly, in other parts of Europe and even in Canada, people always tell me I look Eastern European, whereas in Prague, people tell me with absolute certainty that I am Eastern Ukrainian. One guy even started naming towns. I thought that was pretty cool.

It was nice to blend in...that is until they tried to strike up a conversation.