Saturday 9 August 2008

"Sur le Pont D'Avignon, l'on y danse, tout en rond..."

When Christine and I arrive in Avignon, it's the last day of the annual theatre festival.
The streets are overflowing with falling posters and discarded fliers:




Some of the street signs have been updated but the old painting in still visible...


We're staying across the bridge from the Old Center and everyday we pass the Pont D'Avignon on our way to and from everywhere. It takes two trips before we hate that bridge - ten minutes of direct sunlight in 35 degree heat, sometimes four times a day. But the view was gorgeous.



On our first full day in Avignon we take a quick trip to Pont du Gard: a UNESCO-listed Roman aqueduct surrounded by 165 hectares of freely accessible land.





Along the bridge, most of the stones have names, dates and shapes carved into them. Christine and I hypothesize that they were market stalls with craftsmen and artisans, judging by the symbols.




We amble along the shore, stop a few times at different swimming places, finally settling on the shallow part with the least amount of gunk. The water is frighteningly cold in contrast to the heat and it takes us a while to muster up the courage to get all the way in.


I, having never bought a bathing suit as I intended, swim in my bikini top that I usually only wear under my open-back tops, and a black slip, which requires constant readjusting...


Most of the time we laze around in the shallow part where it's relatively warm, and just take in the views, the passing canoes full of boys who, when they hear us speaking english, naturally assume we don't understand french. Silly boys.


There was a nice shady spot against the tress with a perfect sitting log.



We're still hugely impressed with the sight of the aqueduct even after staring at it all day, even as it peeks through the tress along the path we take back to the bus.


In the evening we explore Avignon, cutting across squares and wandering through tiny streets.






Buildings with painted window scenes:


Cozy little restaurants...



A marionette performance:


Archways and darkened windows...


The next day we're off to Fontaine de Vaucluse with high ambitions: we're going to rent bikes and cycle to Gordes and Roussillon for the day.

When we get there, it is notably hotter (maybe 36 or 37) and the bike shop is closed on Mondays. We find our way to the tourist office to see if we can get bikes - or maybe a bus, since the heat is already taking its toll - to get to Gordes and Roussillon. The tourist office is closed until 2:30. Ok then.

Turns out there is no bus to Gordes or Roussillon from here. Fine, we give up and decide to take a tour the next day to see the lavender fields and the two towns.

But our pointless excursion to Fontaine de Vaucluse was nonetheless fun - it's a pretty little town with tons of colour and a river running through it (we dip our toes, heels, legs in it to cool off).


Cute little restaurants and gourmet shops...



Most of the town around the main streets is quiet and relatively empty...








The next four pictures are in progression - just the most beautiful alley ever...





The lanterns pop out of corners and the little squares are colourfully painted...





Really nice little place.

Back in Avignon that evening, we go up to the garden behind the Palais de Papes to lounge on the grass and watch the sun set over Pont D'Avignon.


The next day is the aforementioned lavender tour, but first lunch by the river under the Pont D'Avignon. Check out this video Christine made, unofficially titled Le Quack.



Yeah, we're cheap. But we sing like rockstars.



The tour is actually in a van with only seven other people. First stop is Roussillon, a stunning village "in the heart of the world's biggest vein of ochre." It positively glows in the sunlight.









Seriously, how amazing is this place?



Love that tree. I declare that my tree.


The colour! Astounding!


And people actually live here.



Look close at the stratification in those cliffs:




Everywhere in Roussillon they contrast the ochre coloured houses with bright fabrics, pots and vases, painted wooden doors and so many flowers. It's actually nicknamed "the coloured village" and no wonder.

Next we stop by the lavender fields by Abbaye de Senanque, which are more spectacular in June and early July (they're harvesting now), but the lavendine fields right next to them were a little more colourful.

Then Gordes. We stopped at a view point before entering the village:



The most amazing view, and the views from Gordes itself are even better (hence all the people gathered down there).


It's nicknamed "the stone village" because it's essentially been carved out of the mountain, starting with a fortified castle as early as the 11th century.








Some of the buildings are just open empty spaces, seemingly abandoned. I just really loved the view from this window.


I love markets with baskets of goods, wheelbarrows and potted plants scattered out front.


Then we stopped at the Lavender Museum, where we learned the difference between lavender and lavendine: Provence is the only place in the world where lavender grows - everything else is lavendine, which is less potent and doesn't have the medicinal properties of lavender.



Back in Avignon again. I love this door - it's from the Palais du Roure (1469).


And this cool wall just inside Le Petit Louvre Theatre:


More happy wandering:


Most inviting candy store ever:


Beautifully lit towers...


Still leftover flags, streamers, banners...

I hopped up on a tree-pot thingy to snap a few photos of Place de L'Horloge at dusk: see the two white statues on the balcony to the left? And the opposite windows are painted...


A little hive of touristy activity, which Christine and I enjoy from our perch, cooling off with gelato bought from a place on the corner of the square (complete with flirty gelato-vendor).


As I'm standing up there taking photos, Chris sees a photo-op - I look all aristocratic and stuff...


Everywhere in France, there are carousels, I love it.


The next day, Christine is back to London and I'm off to St. Remy before my trip to Paris.
This was a little garden surrounded by stone walls next to a gallery.



The gate to the Old Town:


I just can't get enough of these beautiful little streets...



The Hotel de Sade...wonder what kind of services they offer...


The prettiest square in St. Remy:


The water from this fountain is channeled around the square and through some of the nearby streets...


Vines and archways...


The Nostradamus fountain (1859):


Flowers in every window...


Van Gogh stayed in St. Remy for a year (1889-90), and there is a path you can take through some of his favourite spots, with info about what he painted while he was there.





A sky-blue gate leading through an orchard to a little stone cottage with the same sky-blue shutters:



I made a little video of me getting lost on this path (which is clearly designed for drivers).
I was freaking out because I got really lost, ha. Damn Van Gogh path.



I did get back to the bus stop, sweating like a mad-woman, with seconds to spare - then: Paris.